Assessment: Overall the fabric of the bodice and skirt were in sound condition, although there were signs of deterioration of the velvet, with evidence of fine fibre loss. There was crumpling and creasing throughout, the result of use and storage. The seams of the corset and bodice were split, resulting in the loss of structure. The fastenings down the front of the corset were weak and therefore would not be strong enough to use. The skirt had three splits down the back resulting in the skirt gaping along the bottom edge and waist.

Options and considerations: Dress. To ensure that the dress would be strong enough to hold its own weight whilst on display, the stability was paramount. I recommended that both the internal and external section of the bodice be conserved. Aesthetically, just the outer bodice could have been conserved, but I felt that the structure of the internal bodice needed to be re-instated to provide the strength and shaping. I considered that this could potentially have an impact on the timing of the project, so I prioritised the treatment.

Mannequin. The dress was to be displayed on a mannequin provided by the owners. I collected the mannequin at the earliest opportunity and once collected it became apparent that it was too large for the dress. It was too late to organise a new mannequin, so after consultation with the director, I alter the one I had collected. The mannequin was made of polystyrene, so could be carved into shape, but I had concerns about the stability of the polystyrene. I researched the material and concluded that it would suitable for short term display and recommended that the case was monitored for signs of deterioration of the form.

Conservation measures:  Reinstating the side seams on both the corset and the bodice has re-established the structure. This has made it possible to display the dress as intended. The conservation of the splits on the skirt had both improved the aesthetics of the skirt and made it safe for display. Once the dress was mounted, it was gently steamed to reduce creasing, improving the aesthesis and reducing the risk of sharp creasing and splitting over time.

Health and safety was observed when carving up the mannequin. A mask was worn and the polystyrene was vacuumed away during and after the process.

Treatment compromise: As a result of carrying out more conservation work on the dress and unscheduled work on the mannequin I had to compromise on the padding for the arms, using acid free tissue rolls instead of padded mounts. I felt that these would be suitable for short term display The dress was to be returned to the owner after the exhibition and therefore padding was not essential for storage.

Organisation: During the conservation process, I managed my time to ensure that the deadline, which was the opening of the exhibition, was met. I carried out some work at home freeing up time for on site work and mounting. The client was kept informed at all stages of the treatment and consulted about changes prior to treatment. Conservation records and photography before during and after were kept advising both the director and the owner of the object of the treatment taken and reasons why. Advice was given on the environmental needs for display and recommendations were provided for the owner for future care. future care.